Chiang Mai

November to February is the best season: dry, pleasantly cool (15-28°C) and clear. March to May is hot and dry but also burning season, agricultural fires fill the air with smog (AQI regularly >150). June to October is the rainy season but also the most breathable time. The Yi Peng Lantern Festival (November, lunar calendar) is the most beautiful time of year.

Three days is the minimum: day 1 Old City and Doi Suthep, day 2 Elephant Nature Park, day 3 cooking class and Nimman. Four to five days let you add a hill trek or Chiang Rai day trip. Two days is rushed and leaves you feeling like you didn't get everything in.

Red songthaews (taxi trucks) run fixed routes and are cheap (20-30 THB per person). Grab (Thailand's Uber) works reliably for comfort. Renting a scooter or bicycle is the best way to explore the Old City and surroundings (~200 THB/day). There is no metro, but Chiang Mai is small enough that most attractions are walkable.

Only if you choose consciously. Stick to sanctuaries that ban riding, chains and shows entirely: Elephant Nature Park is the recognised gold standard. Kamp Regen, BLES and Elephant Freedom World are also respectable options. Avoid any location offering rides or performances: these are signs of animal abuse, regardless of how the marketing frames it.

Khao soi is Northern Thailand's coconut curry noodle soup: rich yellow curry, soft boiled egg noodles, crispy fried noodles on top, pickled onion, lemon and chilli paste on the side. It is the dish visitors come to Chiang Mai specially for. Khao Soi Islam (Halal), Khao Soi Mae Sai and Khao Soi Gai Sai Noi are the three most respected addresses.