Pai

Pai has a reputation as a busy tourist village that puts people off, but the valley itself is genuinely beautiful. Stay two or three nights, hire a scooter and explore outside the centre, and you'll find the peace that made the village famous. The main street is commercial; the rice fields are not. Pai's beauty lies in the surroundings, not in the village itself.

Two options: bus (green minibus, 3-4 hours) or scooter from Chiang Mai via Route 1095. The bus ride has 762 curves and can be nauseating (take travel sickness tablets). The scooter ride is the best option if you have experience riding mountain roads. There are also daily flights (Bangkok Airways) from Chiang Mai, but they're expensive for the distance.

November to February is the ideal season: cool (15-25°C), the rice fields are green and the valley mist is spectacular. March, May is hot (up to 35°C). The rainy season (June, October) makes the valley greener but the roads wetter. Route 1095 can become dangerous in heavy rain.

For Route 1095 from Chiang Mai: yes. For Pai itself, a bicycle is enough for the centre and rice fields. For day trips outside Pai (Moh Paeng, Tha Pai Hot Springs, Pai Canyon) a scooter is handier. Rental prices: bicycle 50-80 THB, scooter 150-250 THB per day.

Two nights is the minimum to cover the rice fields, a viewpoint and the hot springs. With three nights you'll also have time for Route 1095 (as a day trip back to Chiang Mai or on to Mae Hong Son). Longer than three nights is only worthwhile if you're really seeking peace and happy with slow days.