Nepal
The scent of clay and the shadow of the Himalayas
The morning sun casts long shadows over the red bricks of the city, while the scent of incense drifts through the narrow alleys. It is October, the air is clear and the mountains seem closer than ever.
25 September 2026 · Wayloha editorial · 3 sources
A silence without engines in Bhaktapur
As I walk through the streets of Bhaktapur, I notice immediately that things are different here. Motorised vehicles are not allowed into the historic city, which creates a special kind of peace. You only hear footsteps on the old paving and the distant shouts of market traders.
The city feels like a living museum. History is around every corner: old squares, temple steps and a door that has kept the same colour for a hundred years. As I wander, I see how traditions continue here every single day. In October, with dry weather and fresh air, this is perhaps the most pleasant month to roam for hours.
In Bhaktapur, the only sound is the rhythm of footsteps on old bricks.Nepal
Hands in the clay
In a small workshop, I see a craftsman shaping a pot with a steady hand. Bhaktapur has been a centre for pottery for centuries and the scent of wet earth hangs everywhere nearby. I am allowed to join in for a moment and try the potter's wheel myself.
The clay feels moist and cool under my fingers. It is almost hypnotic to watch a simple lump of mud transform into a bowl or a pot. This craftsmanship is passed down from father to son here, and you see the result everywhere: on windowsills, at the market and along the road drying in the sun.
The clear air of October
As soon as the monsoon passes, the landscape changes completely. In October, the air in Nepal is clear, and that is exactly why this month is so good for seeing the mountains. The clouds that hide the peaks in summer make way for a crisp blue sky.
The roads are also no longer muddy, unlike during the rainy season. This makes travelling through the hills a lot more pleasant. The temperature is mild during the day and cool in the evening, and the views of the Himalayas are impressively sharp on clear days.
Paths that lead to the clouds
My journey takes me from the cities to the higher regions for a trek. Since 2023, you are no longer allowed to trek alone in many regions: you must register with a recognised trekking agency. This means a guide or porter is not just company but also mandatory.
On the way, I rely on OpenStreetMap or OsmAnd maps, and I download GPX files of the route in advance. Many places here can only be reached on foot, sometimes even only by helicopter. The paths are steep and dusty, but every step brings me closer to the white peaks in the distance.
The bustle of Kathmandu
Back in Kathmandu, I immediately feel the energy of the city again. It is the cultural heart of Nepal, with Hanumandhoka Durbar Square and the great stupas of Boudhanath and Swayambhunath. Old temples and ordinary city life simply flow into one another here.
To explore the city, I hire a bicycle for a few hundred to a few thousand rupees per day, depending on the quality. This way, I find side streets that you would never see by car. Kathmandu is always in motion, but between the temples, there is always a moment of stillness.
