Nepal
The scent of incense and the first mountains in September
The air in Kathmandu smells of burning incense and freshly baked bread. In September, the monsoon rain slowly fades away, and the city feels clearer and more vibrant than usual.
21 September 2026 · Wayloha editorial · 3 sources
A morning with the monkeys at the stupa
I stand at the foot of the Swayambhunath stupa, which many people call the Monkey Temple. The sun rises and turns the white dome gold. There is movement all over the city, but up here it is momentarily quiet. Monkeys leap between the old buildings and prayer flags flutter in the wind.
The difference from the weeks before is easy to notice in September. After the rain, the air is cleaner and the colours of the temple seem brighter. Later, I hire a bicycle to ride through Kathmandu, which is possible from 500 rupees, and this lets me see the city up close.
Nepal is a country where you sometimes only see the mountains when the clouds briefly part.Nepal
The road to the distant mountains
My backpack feels heavy as I prepare for the trek. I have sturdy walking boots with me and clothes in layers, as the temperature changes quickly once you climb higher. A route to Everest Base Camp or around the Annapurna Circuit does require good preparation.
September is the month in which the monsoon slowly gives way to calmer weather. The paths can still be a bit muddy from the rain, but the days are becoming drier and clearer. Since 2023, trekking alone is no longer allowed in many areas, so I look for a guide or a travelling companion before setting off.
Another world at the foot of the Himalaya
Far from the usual routes, I arrive in villages where life moves more quietly. At the foot of the Himalaya, people here still harvest honey from high rock walls, honey that can have a strong effect due to the unusual plants in the area. It is impressive to see how nimbly the villagers climb along the cliffs.
These villages feel different from the bustle of the city. Learning a few words of Nepali helps enormously, especially here, far from the usual places for travellers. People respond more warmly as soon as you try to speak some of their language.
Finding peace in the Pokhara valley
I travel from Kathmandu to the Pokhara valley, and the atmosphere changes immediately. The air is cooler here and the surroundings invite a walk or a moment by the water. There is plenty to do, from active outings to simply doing nothing by the lake.
In September, the heaviest rain is over and nature comes back to life. On clear days, you see the mountains rising above the clouds. It is a good place to recover strength for the next part of the journey.
The silence of the old cities
In Bhaktapur, I immediately sense that it is different from the rest of the country. Motorised vehicles are not allowed in the streets, so it is quiet. It feels as if you are walking through a city from another era, with houses and temples that are centuries old.
Here I walk slowly and take in the wood carvings on the facades. As the sun sets, I think back on the journey of the last two weeks. Fourteen days is the amount of time most travellers set aside for Nepal, and that is exactly enough to realise you are still far from having seen everything.
