Hiroshima

Very much so. Many travellers, in hindsight, call Hiroshima a highlight of their Japan trip, not despite but partly because of the emotional weight of the place. The Peace Park and Peace Museum are unforgettable, but Hiroshima is much more than that: a warm, living city with the original okonomiyaki, fresh oysters, broad green avenues and welcoming locals. And the sacred island Miyajima, with its floating torii, is just a short ferry away. Two days is ideal, one for the city and its history, one for Miyajima.

It is moving, and that's how it should be, but it's neither sensationalist nor horrifying. The museum tells the story with respect, personal objects and clear historical context, and the overarching message is one of peace and 'never again'. It reaches you, so take your time, build in rest breaks and be gentle with yourself and your travel companions. Many people find it both heavy and profoundly worthwhile. If you're unsure about children, it can be confronting for young ones: the park, the Atomic Dome and the thousands of paper cranes offer a softer, still deeply meaningful introduction.

Yes. By shinkansen you're in Hiroshima from Osaka in around 90 minutes, from Kyoto in just under two hours, so a day trip is definitely doable. In one long day you can squeeze in the Peace Park, the Peace Museum and a hop over to Miyajima, but it'll be tight. If you can, staying one night is better: you can see Miyajima unhurried in the evening or early morning when the day-trippers have gone, and you'll taste the okonomiyaki and local life in the evening. Note: the Nozomi shinkansen isn't covered by the Japan Rail Pass; take the Sakura (which is included), or add a supplement for the Nozomi.

It's almost a matter of faith in Japan. The Osaka version (Osaka-yaki) is mixed: cabbage, egg and batter go together in one bowl and then onto the plate, like a thick, savoury pancake. The Hiroshima version is distinctly layered: a thin crêpe at the base, then a heap of cabbage, bean sprouts and pork, followed by a layer of fried noodles (soba or udon), and topped with an egg, everything stacked and cooked together. The result is bigger, sturdier and more noodle-rich. Hiroshima regards its version as the original, and here you'll taste it at its best.

Plan your visit around the tides and the season. The tides determine the torii: at high water it 'floats' and you'll capture the classic photo, at low water you can walk underneath; check a tide table beforehand, as both are worthwhile but different. Seasonally, spring (cherry blossoms) and especially autumn (fiery maple leaves, November) are most beautiful. The best time of day is late: if you stay on the island overnight, you'll have the torii at sunset and the quiet after the day-trippers leave almost to yourself.

Most travellers arrive by shinkansen: from Osaka ~90 mins, from Kyoto ~1h45, from Tokyo ~3h50-4h on the direct Nozomi (with Japan Rail Pass via Hikari + Sakura, change at Shin-Osaka, ~5 hours). Flying is an option too: Hiroshima airport (HIJ) is outside the city, with a bus of ~45 mins to the centre. Within the city itself, the tram (the 'streetcar') is a charming and convenient system that most large cities in Japan no longer have, and walking gets you everywhere, as the centre is compact. Buy an ICOCA card (or load it onto your phone) and tap in and out. For Miyajima, take the train or tram to Miyajimaguchi and catch the ferry there.

Two days is the sweet spot. Day one for the city: the Peace Park and Peace Museum in the morning (allow time for it), the castle or Shukkei-en garden in the afternoon, and okonomiyaki and local life in Nagarekawa in the evening. Day two for Miyajima: the ferry, the floating torii with the tides, the shrine and possibly Mount Misen. If you have just one day, you choose: either the city and its history, or Miyajima; cramming both into one day is possible, but then you miss the quietness that makes this place so valuable.