Nara

Yes, and most travellers do too. From Kyoto or Osaka, you're in Nara by train in about 45 minutes, and the three major highlights (Tōdai-ji with the Great Buddha, the deer park and Kasuga Taisha) all lie within and around the same park, a short walk apart. In one full day you'll see all three, plus a slice of Naramachi. Start early (Tōdai-ji is quieter then), wear good shoes, and you'll be back in time for dinner in the big city. If you'd rather take it slower or want to include the gardens and lesser-known temples, two days with an overnight stay is far more pleasant.

No, but they are wild animals, so treat them with respect. Nara's sika deer are used to people and mostly friendly, some even bow neatly for a biscuit. But if you hold shika senbei (deer biscuits), they can get impatient: they'll push, tug at your clothes or nibble gently. Tips: buy the biscuits only when you're ready to feed them straight away, don't hold them above your head, and hand them over quickly. Keep a firm grip on your map, train ticket and bag too; they'll eat paper. With small children: stay close and let them feed gently. Stick to these rules and it's pure pleasure; most 'incidents' are nothing more than an eager deer claiming its treat.

Spring and autumn are at their finest. Late March through April the cherry blossom blooms across the park and hills (and on Mount Yoshino, a day trip away, you'll find one of Japan's most famous blossom fields). October and November paint the maples in gardens like Isuien a fiery red, stunning against the old temple wood. Summer (July, August) is hot and humid, but the park stays green and cool beneath the trees; winter is mild, quiet and affordable, sometimes with frost on the grass among the deer. Whatever the season: arrive early in the day and you'll have the best spots almost to yourself.

For anyone with the time: absolutely. Most visitors come and go with the tour buses between ten and four, and it's precisely outside those hours that Nara is at its best. Stay overnight and you'll have the deer park at sunset almost to yourself: the lanterns light up, the forest falls silent, and the deer wander through golden light. The early morning at Tōdai-ji too, before the crowds, is magical. Besides, an overnight stay gives you room for the quieter side: the gardens, Naramachi, the lesser-known temples, a kaiseki dinner. One night is enough to feel that difference. Anyone who just wants to tick off the highlights can easily manage with a day trip.

One day for the highlights, two if you really want to savour it. In half a day to a full day you'll see Tōdai-ji, the deer park, Kasuga Taisha and a glimpse of Naramachi, the classic day trip from Kyoto or Osaka. If you have a second day, spend it on the quieter side of Nara: the stroll garden Isuien, the free Yoshikien garden, the eighth-century Shin-Yakushi-ji, aimless wandering through Naramachi, and the park at dawn or dusk. Anyone staying longer can use Nara as a base for day trips to Hōryū-ji (one of the oldest wooden temples in the world) or, in blossom season, to Mount Yoshino. But even in one day Nara leaves an indelible mark.