Kanazawa

Absolutely: for many travellers, Kanazawa is the pleasant surprise of their Japan trip. It's one of the few Japanese cities that survived the war untouched, and you see it everywhere: intact samurai neighbourhoods (Nagamachi), geisha districts (Higashi Chaya), and in Kenroku-en one of the country's three great gardens. Add the Omicho seafood market to that (a match for Tokyo's) and a world-class museum of contemporary art, and you have Kyoto's beauty without the tourist crowds. The fact that it's remained so undiscovered only makes it better.

Two days is the sweet spot. On day one, do the classics: early morning at Kenroku-en garden and the castle, then the 21st Century Museum, a kaisendon at the Omicho market, and an afternoon wandering through Higashi Chaya and Nagamachi. Day two is for the quieter side: the smaller geisha quarter Kazue-machi, the D.T. Suzuki museum, a gold-leaf workshop or tea ceremony, or a day trip to Shirakawa-go or the Noto Peninsula. With just one day, you'll get a good taste of the city's heart, but you'll want to stay longer.

Surprisingly straightforward. From Tokyo, take the Hokuriku Shinkansen directly to Kanazawa station in about 2.5 hours: comfortable and no changes since the line was extended. From Osaka or Kyoto: via the Thunderbird express to Tsuruga (~80 min from Osaka), then the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Kanazawa (~40 min). Total journey time: just over 2 hours. Kanazawa has no airport of its own; the nearest is Komatsu, about 40 minutes by bus. In the city, the Kanazawa Loop Bus (the tourist loop) is the handiest way to reach the scattered sights; many travellers also hire a bike.

Spring (late March to April) and autumn (November) are at their finest: cherry blossom in Kenroku-en and the castle park in spring, fiery maples in autumn. But Kanazawa is a true four-season city. Winter has a magic all its own: snow on the tea houses, the yukitsuri rope cones in Kenroku-en, and snow crab at its peak. It's also the quietest and cheapest time to visit. One warning year-round: this is one of Japan's wettest cities, so always bring an umbrella.

Kanazawa offers much of what travellers seek in Kyoto: charming old neighbourhoods, tea houses, gardens, crafts, but without the crush that now engulfs Kyoto. It's smaller and more intimate: you'll often have the samurai and geisha quarters largely to yourself. The trade-off is that Kanazawa has fewer famous temples and is quieter in the evenings. What it has that Kyoto doesn't: a world-class seafood market on the Japan Sea, the gold-leaf craft, and a top contemporary art museum. Many travellers do both: Kyoto for the temples, Kanazawa for the peace and the fish.

Three good choices. The area around Kanazawa station is the most convenient base: modern hotels, all trains and buses at your door, and the striking wooden Tsuzumimon gate roof as a landmark. Korinbo/Katamachi is the shopping and nightlife hub, within walking distance of Nagamachi and home to most evening venues. Want atmosphere? Then stay near Higashi Chaya or the Asano River: evenings, once the day-trippers leave, you'll have the lantern lanes largely to yourself. For two nights, station convenience often makes the most sense.