Nazaré

That depends on what you're after. For the big waves you come in winter (roughly October, March, with November, February as the core), but know that it's swell-dependent: the waves only tower on days with the right swell, and truly monstrous days are just a handful per season. It's cold, damp and windy then. For beach and warmth you come in summer (June, August), though it's crowded then and there are no big waves. Spring and autumn (April, May, September) are mild and quiet, ideal for the town and culture, less so for waves.

No. The monster waves of Praia do Norte are tow-in only: a small group of professionals get towed in by jet skis. For ordinary surfers that's life-threatening and out of the question. Want to surf yourself? You can do that, but on the calm town beach (Praia da Nazaré), where surf schools teach beginner lessons on suitable waves. In short: the big waves are for watching (from the fort), not for riding.

Note: Nazaré has no train station in the city; the nearest is Valado dos Frades at ~6 km, then a local bus or taxi. For most travellers the bus is the practical option: Rede Expressos runs direct from Lisbon (Sete Rios) in ~1h45-2h. By car, take the A8 (~1h15 / ~120 km from Lisbon), most convenient for flexibility and day trips in the area.

By the Ascensor da Nazaré, the historic cable car built in 1889 that connects the lower town to the cliff top; a single trip costs about €2.50, a return €4, and it runs roughly every quarter hour from early morning to midnight. Be aware the cable car has occasional short maintenance closures; as an alternative there's a steep footpath/stairway up. At the top you'll find the Suberco viewpoint, the sanctuary and the road to the fort.

Nazaré is a fishing town, so fish leads the way. Order the caldeirada (fish stew, the local speciality), grilled fresh catch or arroz de tamboril (monkfish rice). Reliable, highly-rated spots are Rosa dos Ventos, Gil Vicente and the tasca Tabernassa; for an evening without fish, A Fornalha (grill/steak) is top. And buy a paper cone of peixe seco (dried fish) on the beach: the edible souvenir of the town.

On the right beach, absolutely. The wide town beach (Praia da Nazaré) is for sunbathing and calm swimming, with a lifeguard during season: perfect for families. Praia do Norte, the giant-wave beach, is decidedly not: the current there is life-threatening, even without big waves. Watch it from the cliff and stay out of the water. Always heed the flags and, on the exposed clifftop, keep your distance from the edge in strong wind.

Nazaré is a strong Silver Coast base. São Martinho do Porto (~10-13 km) has a shell-shaped, almost enclosed bay: the calm, safe swimming beach that Nazaré's open ocean is not. Alcobaça (~13 km) and Batalha (~35 km) are two UNESCO monasteries for history lovers. The walled Óbidos (~40 km) is the most popular combination, and Fátima (~50 km) is the great pilgrimage site: together, the classic Lisbon loop. Peniche (~65 km) is a bit further out for surfers. With a car, you can combine all of this effortlessly.