Peniche

That depends on your goal. Surfing is possible all year round; the largest, cleanest swell (and the WSL competition) occurs in September, October, while winter provides powerful waves for experienced surfers. The Berlengas boats run roughly from May to September, subject to weather and a daily cap of ~350, with summer weekends selling out weeks in advance. For beaches and sun, June, September is best; spring and autumn are quieter and good for the cliffs and the town. If you plan your trip around the Berlengas, choose the summer and book early.

By boat from Peniche harbour, it takes about 30 minutes to Berlenga Grande. Important: it is seasonal (~May, Sep), weather-dependent, and capped at ~350 visitors per day, so book well in advance (online is cheaper than at the quay). Expect a return fare of ~€23-29 plus a separate nature reserve entrance fee, and allow for a buffer day in case the sea is too rough and the crossing is cancelled. Bring food and water, as options on the island are limited. Rough seas can also be difficult for those prone to seasickness.

Both, if you go to the right beach. Supertubos, the competition break, is fast, hollow, and shallow: only for experienced surfers. Beginners and advanced surfers should head to Baleal (~5 km north), which offers soft, consistent waves and a high concentration of surf schools providing lessons with board and wetsuit. Because Baleal faces two directions, there is almost always a sheltered, surfable side. Book your lesson in advance during the high season.

There is no convenient train. From Lisbon, Rede Expressos runs in ~1h10-1h35 (from ~€3-9), which is the practical option if you do not have a car. By car, take the A8 + IP6, ~90-105 km and ~1h20 (~€5 tolls). A car is useful once you arrive: Cabo Carvoeiro, Baleal, and Supertubos are spread out; the old town itself is easily walkable, and Baleal is a short hop of ~5 km. Many surf camps run shuttles.

Peniche is a major fishing port, so the sea leads the way: fresh fish, caldeirada (fish stew), and percebes (goose barnacles from the Berlengas). For both views and fish, Nau dos Corvos on the cliffs near Cabo Carvoeiro is the top choice; Marisqueira dos Cortiçais is the place for shellfish; Tasca do Joel has been a fishing institution since 1982; and Miramar is the spot for caldeirada. For a relaxed surf finish, Xakra Beachbar towards Baleal is lovely (note the seasonal hours). Book in advance during the high season.

The star-shaped 16th-century Fortaleza de Peniche was the most notorious political prison of the Salazar dictatorship, where opponents of the Estado Novo were held. Since 2019-2024, it has been reborn as the Museu Nacional Resistência e Liberdade: a serious, moving museum about resistance and freedom. It is not a 'pretty castle', but Peniche's deepest cultural stop. Entry is €10 (with discounts and free categories), open Tue, Sun 10:00-18:00 (last entry 17:15), closed on Mondays.

Peniche is a strong surf and Silver Coast base. The Berlengas (~30 min by boat) are the ultimate nature day trip. Baleal (~5 km) is your beginner beach and sunset spot. Walled Óbidos (~25 km) is the 'pretty' counterpart to Peniche's rawness: a classic combination. Caldas da Rainha (~25 km) features a daily market and ceramics, and the giant waves of Nazaré (~60 km) are a natural surfing supplement. With a car, you can link these together effortlessly.