Lisbon

October is the quiet best season: 21°C, the sea still at summer temperatures, and the half-summer crowds gone. March is cool and changeable: 18°C during the day, regular showers, and terraces half-full: ideal for those travelling without reservations. July, August rises to 28-29°C with peaks above 35°C, little shade on the hills, and expensive. November, February is the low season for a reason: ≈100 mm of rain per month and slippery marble tiles. Two exceptions: Carnival (late February) and Holy Week drive prices up by 30-60%.

On foot, with tram 28 (only before 10:00) and the metro. Three metro lines cover almost everything within the old centre; a Lisboa Card for 48/72 hours (€31/€39) pays off from day two. Taxis and Bolt are cheap (€5, €8 within the centre) and often faster than walking when it rains, as the marble paving stones become slippery. Avoid rental scooters and rental cars: Alfama and Bairro Alto are pedestrian zones in everything but name.

Príncipe Real or Chiado for atmosphere with restaurants. Alfama for the view (but it is not suitcase-friendly: cobblestones, stairs, and no lifts in many guesthouses). Baixa for the best metro connections if you are heading out daily. Avoid Bairro Alto for sleeping unless you party until 3:00: the street noise will keep you awake.

Yes, but adjust your pace. The hills are tiring for short legs; use tram 28 and the Elevador da Bica as a resting shortcut. The Oceanário (Parque das Nações) is geared towards children, not adults taking children along. Skip Castelo de São Jorge during the hot hours: there is not much shade, and the old wall is not a climbing park.

Sintra is the clear number one: 40 minutes by train from Rossio, one well-spent day (see our DO section). Cascais for beach and luxury lunches, ~40 minutes by coastal train from Cais do Sodré: a different line than the one to Sintra. Évora for those daring to travel 90 minutes further: a Roman temple, a 1st-century aqueduct, and a Capela dos Ossos of human bones. Do not do Sintra and Cascais in one day: it does not work and you will not see anything properly.

In the centre, almost always, and often better than in Madrid or Paris. Start with 'olá' and 'obrigado/a' (male/female); the rest can be in English. A few Portuguese words are appreciated, but there is no obligation. In the outskirts (Beato, Marvila, part of north Alfama), it is less English and more Portuguese: use your phone translator and you will be fine.