Setúbal

The finest beaches, Portinho da Arrábida, Galápos, Galapinhos and Praia dos Coelhos, lie about 10-15 km outside Setúbal in the nature park. Mind the summer rules: from 1 June to end of September the beach road is closed to private cars during the day (roughly 07:00-19:30). You then get there by free municipal bus from the Secil car park, which runs to the beaches, or on foot. Outside peak season you can drive, and Creiro and Figueirinha beaches have (paid) parking year-round. So a car is handy for flexibility, but not essential. Important: arrive early (before 09:00), as the small coves and car parks fill quickly in summer.

Yes, it is one of Setúbal's genuine highlights: in the mouth of the Sado lives a resident population of some 25 to 30 bottlenose dolphins, one of Europe's few stable populations, and the operators have been following them for years. But be honest: these are wild animals, so a sighting is never guaranteed. The chances are high (operators cite around 95%), but it remains nature, not a show. A trip usually lasts around three hours and also runs past the Arrábida coast and Tróia, so even without dolphins it is lovely on the water. The calmest sea, and the best chances, you get in the morning; in rough weather a trip may be cancelled. Book ahead, especially in summer.

Choco frito is Setúbal's signature dish: strips of squid (sepia), marinated, breadcrumbed and fried until tender inside and crispy outside, served with chips and a slice of lemon. It is simple, generous and available all over town. The best-known addresses are Tasca da Fatinha (praised by many as the city's best choco frito) and Casa Santiago, nicknamed 'O Rei do Choco Frito' (the king), on Avenida Luísa Todi by the harbour. If you want to enjoy it in style alongside other fresh fish, pop into Mercado do Livramento too. Book at weekends, and check the closing day ahead.

Certainly. Setúbal lies around 50 km south of Lisbon, and by Fertagus train from Roma-Areeiro or Entrecampos you're there in around 50 minutes for about €4.55, comfortably and without traffic queues across the bridge. As a day trip you can easily combine the market, the city and a dolphin trip or half a day on an Arrábida beach. But if you want beaches, and Tróia, and Azeitão with Moscatel wine, that's too much for one day: stay a night or two instead. Many travellers also combine Setúbal with Sesimbra or Arrábida in a day from Lisbon.

Spring (April, June) and early autumn (September, October) are ideal: pleasant weather, clear water and significantly fewer crowds. Summer (July, August) has the best swimming conditions, but is also the busiest, and that's exactly when the Arrábida feels the pinch: the beaches are small, the access road closes to cars during the day, and the bays and free bus fill up quickly on warm days and at weekends. If you must visit in summer, arrive as early as possible (before 09:00) or go outside weekends. The city itself, the market, the dolphins and Azeitão work well year-round; winter is mild but quieter, with some seasonal businesses closed.